Browse Category: Suzuki GT 750

Choke asssebly

New piston from after marked kit. Rest of the parts only cleaned and polished.

New gasket from aftermarket kit


Final mounting of the choke lever connected with shaft for all three carburetors.

Dismounting of carburetors

Before starting the disassembly process. 


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Important to organize the parts. Use boxes, plastic bags and label well to keep track of which parts belongs to the Left, Center and Right carburetor.



Splitting the carbs (pictures usorted at the moment )

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Test run

Have done some test runs  and it all looks good. The first one was not, had to change the points and adjust the timing once more. Now it works fine. I’m so pleased to have the bike on the road again 🙂


First startup

At last, almost two years since I started the engine rebuild it was time to verify if all my posts on the blog were done correctly. So far so good. Final answer will come after the first test run. Getting the license plate next week. Most of the work on the motor was done after I completed the “Man Cave” and the Man Cave was essential for a successful ending. Old and blind I need light and space for such a job. Hopefully this blog can be at inspiration for others working with the same GT 750 issues and pleasures 🙂

Put the kettle on:


Click on the images for detailed view



No decals are used, all hand painted by my nephew Thomas Grenasberg.






SRIS system

According to the information in fig 1 the SRIS tube from the front side should go from the left cylinder inlet ( see the label C in fig.2) to the center cylinder SRIS outlet port. The SRIS type 2 system. Center to Right and Right to Left, all according to fig.6-13 from the manual






From left cylinder inlet




To the Center cylinder SRIS check valve outlet.



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Fig.4 shows the two remaining tubes. From Right to Left (red arrow) and Center to Right (yellow arrow ) .

Cover on the left hand side

Did the mounting of the cover on the left hand side today. The cover will also house the timing plate, points and capacitors.

I was advised to add some silicone gasket in addition to the new paper gasket, please see the pictures.




Add silicone.

Don’t add silicone where I have the yellow marker. I did it wrong and had to wipe it off after the mounting.



Mount the gasket. I had both alignment studs in the cover and therefore I put the gasket as shown.



Add silicone gasket.

left side cover

To be able to align the side cover in its correct position the pin must hit the hole in the disk rotating the timing camshaft. Be gentle and don’t use force. Rotate a bit to left and right until the cover snap on.



I still had the original screws. Did some polishing on the heads before the mounting.

Done !

Cylinder in place

The difficult job is done, got the cylinder block down onto the pistons without breaking any of the piston rings. Got a helping hand from a friend, was too scared to do it alone.




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Hmm, rusty bolts. A new kit has been ordered from UK. The attempt to refurbish the old ones was not a success. Let’s hope I soon get the parts and can mount the cylinder head the next weekend.

Verifying the thermostat

Step 1. Remove the thermostat housing

Not an easy task, all of three screws were stuck. Applied some anti rust solvent and went ahead with the job the next day.

The housing were heated up by using a butane torch and in addition I used an impact screwdriver to get the screws loose.



Finally I had the parts separated



Cleaning of the parts using the ultrasonic washer


Step 2, verify the function of the thermostat:

According to the service manual the vale opening temperature is 82 deg C and wide open (8mm)  at 95 deg C.


82 deg C and closed



85 deg C and half opened


90 deg C and almost fully opened

Good to go, the thermostat is functioning as specified.


Thermostat response time:

See how it’s closing only seconds after it is out of the boiling water.


Step 3, polishing the thermostat housing:


Nice and shiny 🙂