.

The throttle cables are now installed and fully synchronized according to the service manual, along with the oil pump cable.

This was my first time doing this job. The synchronization went smoothly, but the installation itself was quite a challenge.

The real challenge was attaching the cable to the piston — as shown in the photo. The J model uses a smaller piston, while my bike is fitted with K model carburetors, which have longer pistons.

That extra length made it very difficult to get the cable all the way down and properly secured. In the end, I used a piece of dental floss to guide and pull the cable into position. A simple trick, but it worked.

Synchronizing:

I adjusted the alignment according to the service manual. Make sure that all the punch marks line up at the same level when you slightly twist the throttle.

Oil pump wire:

The throttle cable has four inner wires — three for the carburetors and one for the oil pump. The longest one is for the oil pump.

I followed the procedure according to the service manual, but take a close look at the photo below. There are two additional small punch marks, in addition to the one described in the manual.

The manual states that the red punch mark (No. 3 in the photo above) should be aligned with the green mark (No. 4) when the punch marks on the pistons are at the top position.

This is one way to do it. However, you can also align the smaller punch mark (No. 2) with No. 4 — but in that case, the punch marks on the pistons should be positioned in the middle.

I tried to follow the instructions in the manual, and afterwards, when lowering the piston mark to the center position, I noticed that punch mark No. 2 was aligned with No. 4.

In other words, both adjustment methods will work fine.

Olil Pump Wire Retainig Clip:

The plastic retaining clip was missing. Originally, the clip was made of metal, but all aftermarket replacements are produced in plastic.

I had no idea where to buy one, so I used my 3D resin printer and made a batch of them in tough plastic resin.

With resin printing, the height of the part is what determines the print time. A part like this takes about one hour to print — whether you make one or a hundred.

I printed 25 in one go. I’ll be giving them away at the Classic Suzuki Rally in Norway to anyone who dares to use one 🙂

All done:

Time to start the overhaul of the carbs. The first time I’m doing this, so it has to be learning by doing + take a lot of photos and watch YouTube.

Sorting out the cables and carbs:

L, M and R :

This carburetor is the 33011 type. The last letter will be L, M og R for Left, Middle and Right.

Remember to organize all parts in boxes and don’t mix between L,M and R.

Removing the throttle valve:

Uncrew the top and slide off.

Removing the throttle cable and return spring:

Remove the throttle cable from the valve.

Return spring:

Remove the return spring.

Removing the choke ( starter piston):

Remove and inspect the starter valve (choke)

Remove the Drain plug and the inspection bolt for the throttle valve.

Removing the float, float valve and seat:

Inspect the valve for any worn.

Removing jets:

Needle jet:

Insert a screw and give it a tap with a hammer to get loose. Remove from the other side.

Note: The needle jet is also named Needle nozzle in the manual.

Ultrasonic cleaning:

Wather blasting:

After the ultrasonic cleaning I got all the alu parts wather blasted, looks very nice 🙂

Next step will be the assembling process, but not today.

Assembling:

All channels were well air blasted, cleaned with solvent, and air blasted again.

Mounting the needle jet (Needle nozzle):

I made a tool in brass for a more easy way to insert the needle jet. Please be aware of the lock pin and the orientation of the needle jet. Insert the jet from the other side and give tap the tool gently if needed.

Mounting the Main Jet:

Use correct size (with) of the washer. If it’s too narrow, the Needle nozzle can slide out. As shown in the picture above the Main jet will also lock the Needle nozzle in place.

Hard to see how it can slide through on the other side, working against gravity, but can happen during the assembling process it the carburetor is turned upside down. But as mentioned above, the main jet will lock it all in place if the spacer has the correct diameter.

The standard Main jet size is 0,8mm, marked as 80.

Mounting the pilot jet:

#22,5 size according to the manual.

Mounting the Air Jet:

Turn the Air jet all the way in, than 1,5 turn backwards.

Note: The picture is from the left carburetor. For the M and R, the jet is fitted from the other side.

Mounting the Idle Jet:

Did some cleaning and polishing before mounting.

Gasket:

I used the old gasket as a template, drew the outline and cut a new one in 1mm gasket material. Seems to fit quite well.

Float:

Warm the water almost to the boiling point and dip the float into the hot water.

To check the float for leakages ( it’s 50 years old and fragile) put in hot water and look for bubbles. Locate the hole and clean well before soldering.

This is not easy to fix. Clamp the part gently so it doesn’t fell apart due to the pressure inside when heating up.

Mounting the Float Seat and valve:

You can use the old one if it’s not worn.

Mounting the Float and Float Pin:

The float height will be adjusted later on when I have all three carbs ready.

Almost done:

A simple test to see how it all fit together. I think I have learned a bit so far. Hopefully the images can be at help for other as well. At least for me, when I’m doing the M and R carburetors. But not tonight.

Drain plug and inspection screw:

Float height :

Adjusting the fuel level according to the service manual.

Needle jet height:

The circlip at the needle jet for the center carburetor should be in the middle position. For the right and left carb, mount the circlip in the second groove from the top. This will give a bit more fuel to the center cylinder.

Rubber hose:

Replace the rubber hose if it’s old and hardened. I got them all new and the yellow arrow shows the directions for mounting the rubber hose.

Mounted on the bike:

Before routing the throttle and choke cables I mounted them all on the bike. Will buy new clamps for the rubber hoses so it all looks nice shiny.