Coils and capacitors

In this post I will try to give basic information about the electronics in the ignition system. The Suzuki service manual refer to two of the key components as Condenser  and Coil. In fact , that’s a bit wrong. The condenser is a capasitor and the coil is a transformer made of two coils, one for the primary side and one for the secondary side.

Condenser / capacitor

Capacitor

Fig.1

The word condenser is common to use on components able to store or convert energi (ex:converting gas into liquid)  but in electronics this device is more referred as a capacitor and I will use the word capacitor or CAP in the rest of my posts.

In fig 1 you can see three caps connected above each circuit breaker to protect the points in the breaker. One for each cylinder , Left, Centre and Right.

Ignite0

Fig.2,

In fig 2. you can see the electrical connections of the capacitor. There is only one wire connected, the yellow wire as shown in fig.1. Pin2 in the schematic symbol is internally connected to the body of the component and will therefore be grounded when mounted at the assembly plate. The schematics in fig.2 is only for one cyllinder. All together we have three coils, three circuit breakers and three capacitors, but one battery.

A capacitor consist of two metal plates (metal foil) with an electric insulated material in between. The Suzuki type is rolled and put in a can. That’s the reason for the shape of the cap.

If you apply voltage to a cap you will charge up the cap with current until it has the same voltage as you apply. Almost the same as a battery except from the speed. You can charge and discharge thousends of times within a second. The frequency can be many kHz. If we go above Mhz the performance will change and this type of cacitor will become a coil, but don’t worry, I will not discuss that now.

The units for measuring a cap is Farad. The value of the Suzuki cap should be in the range of 160-220 nF. That’s the same as 0,000000160-200 Farad.

How to measure the value :

If the capacitors are mounted and installed at the bike do the following:

Disconnect the wiring harness of the points from the connector, see fig.3

 

 

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Fig.3

 

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Fig.4.

Make sure the point is open and not closed. If the point is closed you have a short in paralell of the cap.

Use an instrument capable of measuring CAPACITOR. Connect the red test lead from the CAP output to the yellow wire on the capacitor. The black lead to any part at ground level. In fig. 4 the value is 192 nF and is a valid result.

 

COIL
As mentioned in the beginning of this post the Suzuki coil is actually an electromangnetic transformer and contains two coils. And three of those transformers is needed, one for each spark plug.

What is a the function of an electromagnetic transformer ?

 

transformer

Fig.5

Answer: On the primary side you apply a AC voltage and the windings around the iron core set up an alternating magnetic field. At the secondary side the magnetic fields are throwned across the windings. Whenever an inductor or a wire sees a varation in a magnetic field we have induction of voltage across the wires. And the bulb in fig. 5 can light up. The ratio on numbers for windings define the voltage. If you have 10 times more turns  on the primary side compare to the secondary side, the voltage will be 10 times lower on the lamp. And opposite, in the GT750 coil we have more windings on the secondary and transform the voltages up many times

 

And don’t be sad if you don’t understand why. Einstein didn’t understand it either. No one does, it’s only a fact of physics. And it only happen if we apply AC (alternated voltage) giving an alternated magnetic field. A static magnetic field does not induct any voltage at the secondary side.

In other words, a 12V DC battery gives no voltage at the secondary side. Stop !, that’s what we have in the GT750 electronics, a DC battery and a transformer. Yes, and you don’t get any voltage on the secondary side until you…..cut off the current with the circuit breakers. That’s what we use the points for, cutting a DC current into pieces , making a conversion from DC to AC.

 

Current into the GT750 coil:

Ignite1

Fig. 6

I measured the DC resistance in the primary side coil to about 4,7 ohm. 12V divided on 4,7 R gives about 2,5 Amps into the coil. This gives a solide magnetic field in the coil but no voltage at the secondary side. When the camshaft hit the circuit breaker and open up the points, the current are cutt off and the magnetic field collaps. This is the change in the field that gives the high voltage at the secondary side. The voltage across the opened point is also very hig but the capacitor in paralell charge up and protect the points from getting worn.

This sequence is also explained in the post “Ignition circuitry

This is meant to happen 24 deg before BTDC ( Before Top Dead Center ) A detailed explanation of the timing adjustments will come in a separate post

 

How to measure the coil :

Click on the image for details

Coil

Fig.7

An easy access to all of the three coils is to measure from the side panel and to the positive pole on the battery cable. Remember the signal from the meter has to go through the emergency switch and the ignition switch. I found 4,7 ohm on all of the secondary side coils.

See the wiring diagram and my previous post “Ignition circuitry

 

Figure 8. shows another access to the coils:

The orange wire is the common wire for all of the coils. Measure from the orange one and to the White (Left coil ) Black /yellow ( Center coil ) and Black wire for the Right coil.

connector coils

Fig.8

 

Ignition circuitry

The schematics shows the circuitry to ignite all of the spark plugs. This is a copy from the Suzuki service manual.

Ignition0

Fig1.

In the schematics all three points are drawn in a open position. This will never happen. The normal positon is closed and 24 deg before  pistons top position (BTDC)  the contact breaker (point) will open up if the adjustemen is done correct.

Step 1: Contact breakes are closed. 

Ignition1

Fig.2

Ig.swich and Egn.stop switch must of course be in closed position to allow current to the coils.

The red arrows in fig.2  shows how the current goes from the battery through the primary coil and down to ground through the contact breaker.The same will happen in the others coils as long as the corresponding contackt breaker is closed.

This is the reason why you drain the battery empty quite soon if you leave the ignition switch on while parking. A lot of current are going through the coils.

Step 2, Ignition

Ignition3

Fig.3

When the piston comes to the BTDC ( 24 deg before the top, 3,64mm on left and right cylinder and 3,42mm on the centre cylinder ) the contact braker open and cut off the current into the coil.

The next step is not easy to understand, but I will try to explain. Before the current was cut off it made a powerful magnetic field in the coil. When the field collapse (due to the opening of the contact breaker and cutting off the current) the change in the magnetic field will make a voltage induction many times higher than the 12V battery in the bike. This high voltage will also burn the points in the contact breaker if there where no capacitor connected in paralell. The capacitor will be recharged by this voltage and store the energy for a short perode of time. At the same time the primary side of the coil will also see the  switching of the magnetic field. The primary coil has more windings compare to the secondary and therefore transform the voltage to many thousand volts and we get the spark. See the blue arrows in fig. 3

The basic functions of coils and capacitors will be explained more in depth in a separete post.

The physical implementation and the adjustment procedure for the timing will also be explained in a separate post.

Cover on the left hand side

Did the mounting of the cover on the left hand side today. The cover will also house the timing plate, points and capacitors.

I was advised to add some silicone gasket in addition to the new paper gasket, please see the pictures.

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Add silicone.

Don’t add silicone where I have the yellow marker. I did it wrong and had to wipe it off after the mounting.

 

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Mount the gasket. I had both alignment studs in the cover and therefore I put the gasket as shown.

 

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Add silicone gasket.

left side cover

To be able to align the side cover in its correct position the pin must hit the hole in the disk rotating the timing camshaft. Be gentle and don’t use force. Rotate a bit to left and right until the cover snap on.

 

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I still had the original screws. Did some polishing on the heads before the mounting.

Done !

Cylinder in place

The difficult job is done, got the cylinder block down onto the pistons without breaking any of the piston rings. Got a helping hand from a friend, was too scared to do it alone.

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Hmm, rusty bolts. A new kit has been ordered from UK. The attempt to refurbish the old ones was not a success. Let’s hope I soon get the parts and can mount the cylinder head the next weekend.

Verifying the thermostat

Step 1. Remove the thermostat housing

Not an easy task, all of three screws were stuck. Applied some anti rust solvent and went ahead with the job the next day.

The housing were heated up by using a butane torch and in addition I used an impact screwdriver to get the screws loose.

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Finally I had the parts separated

 

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Cleaning of the parts using the ultrasonic washer

 

Step 2, verify the function of the thermostat:

According to the service manual the vale opening temperature is 82 deg C and wide open (8mm)  at 95 deg C.

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82 deg C and closed

 

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85 deg C and half opened

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90 deg C and almost fully opened

Good to go, the thermostat is functioning as specified.

 

Thermostat response time:

See how it’s closing only seconds after it is out of the boiling water.

 

Step 3, polishing the thermostat housing:

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Nice and shiny 🙂

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Installing pistons

New parts to be mounted

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Part no

 

Step 1: Circlip

Circlip

Mount one circlip in all three pistons. Move the end position away from the cutout. Be gentle and don’t bend the circlip too much. Use a screw driver as a tool to flip it into the position in the groove. Always new circlips, never reuse old one.

 

Step 2: Piston rings

Piston rings

Mount the piston ring as shown on the photo. Be aware of the pin locking the ring, see the arrows. You don’t need any special tools for mounting the piston rings. They are quite expensive an if you are afraid of braking any of them, drink a beer before you start 🙂

Step 3: Gasket and O-rings

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O-rings

Mount the gasket, don’t forget to mount three O-rings underneath the gasket.

 

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Before you continue, cover all holes so you don’t drop any parts inside the engine. Can be difficult to retrieve.

 

Step 4: Pistons

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Oil the bearing before and after it’s installed in the rod.

Piston mounting

Remeber the washers (31)

 

 

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Push in the piston pin and mount the last circlip at the end.

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Pistons

Make sure the right piston (label R) is on the right hand side and the arrow is pointing forwards. The left and center piston are identical and are both labeled L

Generator and front sprocket

Mounted the rotor part of the generator yesterday + the o-ring and the cover behind the front sprocket

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Use some pieces of wood to lock the crank.

 

 

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Mount the rotor part of the generator and torque to about 20 Nm

 

 

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Mounting a new oil seal in the cover behind the front procket.

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Mounting a new O-ring, use some grease to keep it in place

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Mounting the cover

Assembling the clutch and the kick starter

The photo below shows how I did the assembly of the clutch and the kick starter.

 

Step 1: Fit the oil guide plate. Drive all three screws well home. If you are to use thread locker or not depends on your religion. Do you believe in it or not. Someone says ” don’t use it, you will never get them loose”. Others say….And I’m not gonna tell you what I did .

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Step 2:

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Mount the shim ( no.16)

 

Step 3:

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Mount the spacer, chamfer side goes in back.

 

Step 4:

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Mount the clutch

 

Step 5: 

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Mount the bearing assembly

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Step 6:

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Mount the spacer, chamfer side at the front.

 

Step 7:

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Mount the clutch sleeve hub (5),  locking washer (7) and center nut (6)

Always use a new locking washer, not the old one like I did on the photo.Why did I use the old one ? I didn’t know I had a new one until I had completed the assembly process. Can save the washer for the next time.

 

Step 8:

Torque setting for the center nut is about 50 Nm.

Before torquing up the center nut you need to some how lock the sleeve hub (5) Never use a screwdriver on the edges. You can make a special tool using old steel plates from a clutch. I had no such tool but did it in this way:

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Lock into one of the gears and do something clever to lock the front sprocket, like I did on the photo above.

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Don’t forget to bend the “new” lock washer. One of the edges is enough.

 

Step 9:

Before mounting the clutch check the specifications of the cork plates and the springs

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STD lenght: 40,4mm. Spring setting limit :1,4mm

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STD thickness: 2,9-3,1mm. Wear limit: 0,2mm

 

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Let the cork plates be quite oily before you mount them

 

 

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Grind off any layers from the steel plates.

 

 

 

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Start with the cork plate, then the steel plate. The last plate should be a cork plate. The steel plate has a little radius on one side and a flat side on the other side. The flat side at the bottom and the radius facing  against the front.

8 cork plates and 7 steel plates.

And as you can see, I found the new lock washer after I had completed the assembly.

 

Step 10:

Mounting the clutch pressure disk.

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Remeber the mount the clutch release shaft (17)

Mount the bolts in a pattern for an even distribution of the force. When all bolts are driven home you just give it a tap . No torque settings

 

Step 11

Kick starter

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Mount the spring holder (and the plate behind if not already mounted)

 

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Mount the spring

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Competed !

 

 

Step 12

Mounting oil seals, gasket and side cover

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There are two oil seals in the cover, both should / can ( depends on age) be replaced. Add grease on the seal side.

 

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I found both mounting studs quite stuck in the cover, not at the case side. Therefore I put the gasket at the cover side.

 

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Done !