The bracket for the choke lever was broken. Could I make a new one?
Yes, I did:
How it was done: First, I drew the model in Fusion 360 and used my CNC machine to mill the part from 1.2 mm thick steel.
3D model:
Machining:
Thereafter, I bent the part and nickel-plated it as the final step.
Mounted on the bike:
I’m pleased with the result:
I found this knob om ebay, but decided to make my own.
I’m not 100% sure about the dimensions, since I had to rely on the photo from eBay and measurements of the axle from the speedometer. However, it fit well once mounted.
Feel free to download the STL file if you would like to 3D print your own knob.
The old rubber cushions were almost completely worn out. I found one on eBay but decided to make my own. Using the old ones and photos from eBay, I created this part in my CAD system:
The part I made:
Please feel free to download the STL file:
You need to 3D print it using a rubber-like resin. Use a heat gun to warm up the part before mounting. This will make the rubber part soft and easy to install.
3D printed cushion:
J–K models use the black plastic version of the chain guard. I was fortunate to obtain one of the last remaining original parts from the 1972–1973 production years.
Item No. 14, the metal reinforcement plate, was missing, so I had to fabricate a new one.
The part should have been made in steel, but I chose to manufacture it in aluminium, as shown in my CAD model. After a trial 3D print in PLA to verify the dimensions, I machined the final part from 3 mm aluminium on my milling machine and tapped M6 threads.
Please feel free to downlad the STL file.
For extra strength, I added a nut to improve clamping, since the part was only 3 mm thick.
The chain guard is now mounted on the bike. The screw in the frame will be replaced with a countersunk version at a later stage.
I made the best out of the old exhaust pipes, and the bike looks pretty good with all four pipes mounted. Really happy with how it turned out.
Rear view
Right side
The chain was cut and mounted on the front and rear sprockets.
The wiring is from the GT750 diagram, but will be valid for most of the Suzuki models.
I had some issues with the ignition switch on my GT750. It started as an intermittent fault, but by the next day, it completely died. I had to hot-wire it just to get the bike running. I did it like this:
By adding two wires to the switch connector located inside the headlamp, I was able to bridge the red and orange wires, leaving it open when the bike wasn’t running. Note: Be sure to insulate the wires with tape. Any contact with the frame will cause a short and blow the fuse. Doing so, it all worked except from the tail light, but the brake light was OK.
The next day I came home from my ride and could start to repair the ignition switch. This is how it was done:
Both the orange and red wire had bad connection to the terminals. In addition the red terminal was loos and I took the switch all apart:
The loose terminal was glued with epoxy and all the wires were replaced with new ones.
One of the insulation spacers was broken. The brown was OK, and I made the gray one from a PCB sheet. The material for the sheet / spacer has to withstand some temperature since all the current to the bike goes through the switch. I also added som grease for electrical connectors before the assembling.
All done and it worked perfect 🙂
The exhaust clamps were ugly and rusty. I don’t have any new ones and did some cleanup.
Sandblasted and nickel plated. Not prefect and shiny, but look better and give some protection against corrosion.
Rear footrest:
I bought new rubber for the footrest. The metal parts were sand blasted, sanded and nickel platet.
The lock pins were missing but I made new ones from brass using my lathe and they were nickel plated.
Front, right side footrest: (this parts for the J-K modes are hard to find)
Left and right side have different part numbers. The right one has a the groove at the front side, see the picture above.
Front, left side:
The groove is on the bottom side.
