Finally, after two years of nothing I’m back on track with the restoration process.
Luckily I did some research last time about what part to be fitted in the correct order.
I used images from my previous post about the topic and went a head and did the assembling of the inner tubes.
7 Steps:
Peter Ormrod has uploaded a guid on YouTube. I was allowed to put a link from my blog. Thanks Peter 🙂
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgOX545VabnUPrpDAr0Ws_A/videos
Sorry for a long time of doing nothing on my blog. Hope to do better in 2022….
I come to mind I did a upload some years ago on YouTube showing an alternative way of synchronizing the carburetors, but I never posted the link on my blog. So, here it is:
The service manual explain how to balance the carburetors, but it can be hard to get it right, and annoying surging will occur at low rpm. Some adjust the butterfly valve looking at the air/light gap holding the carbs up agains a light source, but again, not an easy task.
In the video I pour methylated spirit ( petrol smells too much) into the carburetors and get the time of the drainage. Adjusting the carbs to about the same speed of drainage and the surging is gone at low rpm.
I learned this from Steve in Melbourne, Australia when I visited his sister Donna Ann 5 years ago.
Welcome to my blog where I describe my journey in Suzuki GT restoration.
Hopefully at help for myself an others with the same interest. Scroll down for for new posts.
The main idea with this blog is to use it as a reference guide for Suzuki GT 750A and GT 380J model.
Don’t hesitate to give me feedback and guidance if you see me doing it wrong.
Finally I got the resin printer and did a reprint of the light knob. Much better result compare to the first prints I did using an ordinary 3D printer with PETG filament. From the resin printer there is no need for any refubrishing, looks stunning right from the print.
The file can be downloaded from my previous post: https://mc.grenasberg.no/2020/12/26/3d-printed-light-knob/
item: 09320-08012
Please feel free to download the STL file:
Latest update: Got the resin yesterday and did a test print.
Was very pleased and easy to fit the part. A bit stiffer compare to the “real” rubber, but still flexible. Get much softer at temperature. Let it rest in hot water for some minutes before mounting.
Link to the resin supplier: https://wanhao.store/collections/wanhao-brand-resins/products/3d-printing-resin-rubber-resin-1000ml-bottle?fbclid=IwAR2NYoEK_n_4imI9BA3BnFjWl97fM67uk2CWa8I3e1a5bZNwuBYF3sFkxRk
item: 09320-08011
Please feel free to download the STL file for 3D printing.
item: 33651-3100
New 3D file for the Battery box i ready, the pad to be printed in flex filament (rubber replacement) :
After a long time of nothing, here is a new post on my blog.
The image above is from my CAD model done in Fusion 360. I used the lightswitch knob from my GT750 as a template. Started by drawing a sketch around the knob, took a photo of it and imported into Fusion 360. Compleated the CAD model in Fusion360 and made the printer file.
The knop was printed on a Prusa Mini printer in PETG filament.
Here is the result, mounted back on my GT750. Not a perfect finish and I tried to polish the surface a bit. Not easy to do, because the heat from the pad can easily melt the part, as it did on the top. On the other hand, if you ruin the prat, just press reprint button and make another try 🙂
This was only a sample to test the technology. The knob will be needed for my GT380 and I will also make a new print using a resin printer, able to print in a better resolution and a smoother finish. The new printer is on it’s way from China and will hopfully arrive at the end of February.
Please feel free to download the light knob if you want to make you own print.
I bought a new carburetor kit last summer and mounted it for a couple of weeks ago. Interesting to compare with the old one I had. The first test run was promising. After a longer ride I got more and more annoyed about the surging at low rpm. Pretty sure it’s more surging compare to the old one. The fuel consumption is better and the color on the spark plugs looks also better while using this kit. If I can get rid of the surging I will keep them on the bike.
The new carb kit has no anti-surge jets mounted. The previous owner said they are all tapped and ready to be fitted with jets.
I don’t have a new jet-kit, but I have a lathe and milling machine. Let’s make a set of three 0,8mm jets.
Bulletins no 36 explain how it’s mounted :http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/techbuls/index.htm
Jet fitted:
Please read the application note no 36 and follow the procedure how use the 4mm tap.
Test ride:
Very pleased with the test run. The annoying surging issue was gone. 🙂
