Browse Category: 3D printer files

Files for 3D printing

Wiring harness GT380

Hmm, a lot of questions but few answers.

According the the parts manual it looks like the wiring harness should be installed on the right side of the bike, or… not, right side must be wrong. I’m told it right is right, but based on feedback with images I have only got photos from GT380 owners with the wiring harness on the left side of the frame, and it’s the same on my GT750 too. The drawing above must a guidance of how the wiring are connected, not which side it’s fitted.

Based on photos I have got I have some idea about how it should be done. Some advice can also be found on YouTube, but you can’t trust them. Some might be right and some are wrong, and others are horrible wrong.

So, to summarize: I’m not sure, and in some case I don’t have a clue, but I have to start and will use common sense when I have to make decisions. I think a look at mye GT570 will be at a good help. As long as I make it all in compliance with the wiring diagram it should be fine.

Connectors and tools:

I bought a kit from China with a lot of different type of connectors + the crimping tool needed.

In addition I got hold of the upper and lower wiring harness and only need to make some few extra cables to fit into the harness.

The cable from the alternator is already done, please see my previous post. The same for the cable from the ignition electronics (the points )

Next up was the battery cable. That became a bit tricky. Was not able to find the old cable anywhere and how to make a new one. The corresponding connector is made of rubber and how can I make that ? Same procedure as before. I drew the part in Fusion360 and fired up my 3D printer with rubber resin. And here is the result:

I found a picture of the cable on internet and did the measurements on the mating connector from the wiring harness. After printing the part I glued the terminals and added heat shrink to the wires.

The STL file for printing can be downloaded for free:

Next step:

I inserted the main cable for the upper harness through the lower hole in the headlamp and the upper hole will go to the clocks and and switches on the handlebar. I will use adjustable cable ties for clamping the cable onto the frame so I can easy move and do changes as I continues with the wiring.

That’s enough for today. Will continue another day πŸ™‚

Indicator Relay

The original indicator relay was missing on my GT380J model. A ugly replacement relay had been fitted, but was not properly fastened in the rubberband due to its square shape. I had to go on Ebay to search and found a round type of relay, a bit smaller compare to the real thing but looks nice.

Because it’s smaller I can’t use the old bracket with the rubber mount. I made a resin 3D printed bracket so I could use the rubber mount that came with the new relay. Like this:

Resin printed and cured with UV light.

The STL file of the bracket can be downloaded from the link below.

New terminals to the wire so it will fit into the original wiring loom from Suzuki. I also did a test of the relay to verify the function.

Important to use the correct color coding. Orange to the + wire (orange wire is the + battery voltage after the ignition switch) and blue to the indicator lamp. ( the casing of the indicator must be grounded. Note! the blue wire to the indicators will not be blue all the way to the lamps, please see the wiring diagram for details. The 2-wire relay is connected in series from the battery (after the ignition switch) to the indicator lamps. Controlled by the switches, left and right lamps will then get the voltage applied from the blue wire on the relay.

Mounted together with the rectifier and the regulator relay.

Note! The rectifire in the picture above is mounted different compare to how it came with the bike. I turned the recifire upside down and made a proper ground to the negative part of the diode casing to achive a better ground down to the frame. The + part with the insulator is therfore at left side of the picture. Please see my previous post about the rectifier:

https://mc.grenasberg.no/category/electronics/rectifier/

Speedometer file for 3D printing

This is how I made the inner housing for the speedometer. I did the print in white PETG, able to withstand higher temperature compared to PLA filament. The STL file can be downloaded for free from the link below. Can be printed in with support to the build plate.

The original housing had a cutout for the reset-knob for the trip counter. Don’t know why, but it is probably done because difficulties when mounting the clock with the knob attached?

For the rubberpart sealing the reset-knob shaft, I will make my own fix. Can’t be bought so I will try to make something from a rubber tube and see how it works. If I face any difficulties when assembling and need to modify the 3D model, I will upload a new STL files on this site.

3D file Battery box large CUSHION

item: 09320-08012

Please feel free to download the STL file:

Latest update: Got the resin yesterday and did a test print.

Was very pleased and easy to fit the part. A bit stiffer compare to the “real” rubber, but still flexible. Get much softer at temperature. Let it rest in hot water for some minutes before mounting.

Link to the resin supplier: https://wanhao.store/collections/wanhao-brand-resins/products/3d-printing-resin-rubber-resin-1000ml-bottle?fbclid=IwAR2NYoEK_n_4imI9BA3BnFjWl97fM67uk2CWa8I3e1a5bZNwuBYF3sFkxRk

3D printed light knob

After a long time of nothing, here is a new post on my blog.

The image above is from my CAD model done in Fusion 360. I used the lightswitch knob from my GT750 as a template. Started by drawing a sketch around the knob, took a photo of it and imported into Fusion 360. Compleated the CAD model in Fusion360 and made the printer file.
The knop was printed on a Prusa Mini printer in PETG filament.

Here is the result, mounted back on my GT750. Not a perfect finish and I tried to polish the surface a bit. Not easy to do, because the heat from the pad can easily melt the part, as it did on the top. On the other hand, if you ruin the prat, just press reprint button and make another try πŸ™‚

This was only a sample to test the technology. The knob will be needed for my GT380 and I will also make a new print using a resin printer, able to print in a better resolution and a smoother finish. The new printer is on it’s way from China and will hopfully arrive at the end of February.

Please feel free to download the light knob if you want to make you own print.