On the J-model all wires are connected with individual connectors as shown in the diagram below.
On the wiring loom I bought brand new, it’s different. One blue 6-pins connector + two separate connectors for the speedometer lamp and the tachometer lamp.
Since I have all the tools to make the mating connectors I decided to make a new wiring loom for the lamps. The old one was anyhow in a bad shape, but what about the rubber sockets for the lamps?
Was able to buy metal part of the sockets and designed the rubber parts in two pieces, 3D printed them using rubber resin and mounted it all together.
The photos below shows the process:
3D printed rubber parts:
Connectors:
Old and new. Will use standard bulbs, not the LED type as shown in the picture.
Crimp tool:
The picture above shows the lamps with the correct color coding. I used a very soft multi strand wire, but was not able to find the black/ white type. You have to be true to the color coding so I painted a white stripe onto the black wire.
The wiring loom will be wrapped using a flexible textile tape. That gives a solid but flexible wiring loom, easy to be fitted.
Two of the old clips were broken and new parts are still available for buy. Will cost time and money to buy and since it’s fun to make my own parts, why not give it a try? The model was done in Fusion 360 and the first set of six parts were 3D printed with black resin.
The parts looks stunning, but the function of the flexible clips were not good enough. Too fragile and got easily broken. Another type of resin must be used for this type of parts. I can use my rubber resin, but I will order some ABS like resin and give it another try.
The model drawing in Fusion 360
The STL file of the part can be downloaded for free for anyone:
This post will be updated with the result of the ABS flexible resin print when it’s done. The same if I do a rubber resin print of the part. The ones I made worked fine, but as mention above they all looked fragile and some broke when mounted into the frame.
New updates: The file above is now updated to V2 release and will fit better into the frame. The new printed part using ABS like resin was also much better.
According the the parts manual it looks like the wiring harness should be installed on the right side of the bike, or… not, right side must be wrong. I’m told it right is right, but based on feedback with images I have only got photos from GT380 owners with the wiring harness on the left side of the frame, and it’s the same on my GT750 too. The drawing above must a guidance of how the wiring are connected, not which side it’s fitted.
Based on photos I have got I have some idea about how it should be done. Some advice can also be found on YouTube, but you can’t trust them. Some might be right and some are wrong, and others are horrible wrong.
So, to summarize: I’m not sure, and in some case I don’t have a clue, but I have to start and will use common sense when I have to make decisions. I think a look at mye GT570 will be at a good help. As long as I make it all in compliance with the wiring diagram it should be fine.
Connectors and tools:
I bought a kit from China with a lot of different type of connectors + the crimping tool needed.
In addition I got hold of the upper and lower wiring harness and only need to make some few extra cables to fit into the harness.
The cable from the alternator is already done, please see my previous post. The same for the cable from the ignition electronics (the points )
Next up was the battery cable. That became a bit tricky. Was not able to find the old cable anywhere and how to make a new one. The corresponding connector is made of rubber and how can I make that ? Same procedure as before. I drew the part in Fusion360 and fired up my 3D printer with rubber resin. And here is the result:
I found a picture of the cable on internet and did the measurements on the mating connector from the wiring harness. After printing the part I glued the terminals and added heat shrink to the wires.
The STL file for printing can be downloaded for free:
I inserted the main cable for the upper harness through the lower hole in the headlamp and the upper hole will go to the clocks and and switches on the handlebar. I will use adjustable cable ties for clamping the cable onto the frame so I can easy move and do changes as I continues with the wiring.
That’s enough for today. Will continue another day 🙂
Another day:
Still winter in Norway and I will spend some time in the Man Cave to do some wiring:
Still not sure how to lay down the wiring, but I give it a try and use reusable zip ties for an easy adjustments.
Head lamp wiring loom:
Pushing all the wires back into the headlight house to free up as much space as possible. Will be a tight fit later on when the headlight shall be mounted.
Hmm, something is wrong… The blue connector is not part of the schematics. Can it be for a later model with gear indicator ? No, the color code is different.
Some minutes later: Mystery solved, see the picture below:
The blue connector is for all of the small lamps in the clocks. According the the schematic it should be individual connectors, not a common one for all of the lamps. Anyhow, now I know how to do the wiring. It’s more easy too with one 6-pins connector, but why is it not part of the wring ?
Phuu, for a while I thought the main wiring loom was wrong. Well, a bit wrong. It’s not the wiring loom for the J-model and not for the latest ones either. Not a big deal since I know how to wire it and have the tools and parts to make the mating connectors.
Instruments bulbs:
One of the bulbs sockets looks horrible, and the wiring is in a bad shape as well.
I think I order new sockets and make a complete new wiring. If so,I have to 3D print the rubber cover too.
When it’s done, it will be a separate post about how I did it. I can’t put this old and ugly bulb loom back into the lovely bike.
Clamping to the frame:
Photos from the wiring layout:
Tried to lay the wiring close to the frame away from the air filter and other parts to be mounted later.
The wiring loom is quite stiff and to avoid too much bend I ended up laying down the cable as the picture shows. Probably not like the original, but I think this will work fine. But doing so, the fuse holder will fit better on the right side, close to the tool box, but why not?
I will 3D print a bracket for the fuse holder. The fuse holder is not the original, but close to. A 20A fuse.
Grounding:
Make sure the threads are clean without any paint to ensure a proper grounding.
Less questions, all the wiring are now sorted out :
The upper wiring loom I bought deviate from any standard GT380 wiring, it has some extra connectors. Extras:
In addition to the 6-pins blue instrument lamps connectors there are two connectors with Gray and Black/white wires. for instruments lights ( tachometer and speedometer light)
One red wire with +12V, direct from the battery + pole and one extra GND wire. Can be used for alarm system or a charge port to the battery.
One green/yellow wire in the same connector going to the ON/OFF switch. Not in used for my J-model.
One brown wire. The same wire as going to the tail lamp. This wire will also be at power it the ignition switch is turned to parked position.
On/off switch:
The on /off switch is a bit difficult to spot on the wiring diagram, except from the GT380B wiring. The color code is quite simple. Orange is the +12V after the ignition switch (red before the ingnition switch). The orange/white is the +12V to the coils and the bike will of course never run if this switch is turned off. According to the GT380J wiring it’s the orange/white wire changes to solid organge from the switch connector and down to the coils, but not on later models. A bit annoying and I’ve seen several variants of the J-wiring diagrams. Not easy to know what is correct.
A summary of the color codes:
Red (R): The +12V from the battery through the 20A fuse.
Orange (O): +12V after the ignition switch
Orange / white (O/W) 12V + after the ON/OFF switch. Turn on /off the voltage to the coils. Note! only orange wire on earlier models (According to the schematics)
White (W) : Brake lamp wire.
Brown (BR) Tail lamp.
Gray (GR) Instruments lamps
Blue (BL) Neutral position switch. The indicator lamp will light if the wired is shorted to ground.
Light Green (LG) Right indicator lamp.
Black (BK) Left indicator lamp.
Black/white (BK/W) GND (Ground, connected to the frame)
Light Blue (LBL) Turn signal relay wire.
Yellow in the rear wiring (Y) 3 phase AC voltage
Yellow in the front wiring (Y) High Beam Head Lamp.
Note: The Gray and Brown wires will be shorted by the ignition switch in run position and both the indicators lamps and tail lamp will light (if the main light switch is on). If the ignition switch is left in parked position the orange and brown wires are shorted and the tail lamp will light (regardless of the main light switch).
The original indicator relay was missing on my GT380J model. A ugly replacement relay had been fitted, but was not properly fastened in the rubberband due to its square shape. I had to go on Ebay to search and found a round type of relay, a bit smaller compare to the real thing but looks nice.
Because it’s smaller I can’t use the old bracket with the rubber mount. I made a resin 3D printed bracket so I could use the rubber mount that came with the new relay. Like this:
Resin printed and cured with UV light.
The STL file of the bracket can be downloaded from the link below.
New terminals to the wire so it will fit into the original wiring loom from Suzuki. I also did a test of the relay to verify the function.
Important to use the correct color coding. Orange to the + wire (orange wire is the + battery voltage after the ignition switch) and blue to the indicator lamp. ( the casing of the indicator must be grounded. Note! the blue wire to the indicators will not be blue all the way to the lamps, please see the wiring diagram for details. The 2-wire relay is connected in series from the battery (after the ignition switch) to the indicator lamps. Controlled by the switches, left and right lamps will then get the voltage applied from the blue wire on the relay.
Mounted together with the rectifier and the regulator relay.
Note! The rectifire in the picture above is mounted different compare to how it came with the bike. I turned the recifire upside down and made a proper ground to the negative part of the diode casing to achive a better ground down to the frame. The + part with the insulator is therfore at left side of the picture. Please see my previous post about the rectifier:
This is how I made the inner housing for the speedometer. I did the print in white PETG, able to withstand higher temperature compared to PLA filament. The STL file can be downloaded for free from the link below. Can be printed in with support to the build plate.
The original housing had a cutout for the reset-knob for the trip counter. Don’t know why, but it is probably done because difficulties when mounting the clock with the knob attached?
For the rubberpart sealing the reset-knob shaft, I will make my own fix. Can’t be bought so I will try to make something from a rubber tube and see how it works. If I face any difficulties when assembling and need to modify the 3D model, I will upload a new STL files on this site.
Finally I got the resin printer and did a reprint of the light knob. Much better result compare to the first prints I did using an ordinary 3D printer with PETG filament. From the resin printer there is no need for any refubrishing, looks stunning right from the print.
Latest update: Got the resin yesterday and did a test print.
Was very pleased and easy to fit the part. A bit stiffer compare to the “real” rubber, but still flexible. Get much softer at temperature. Let it rest in hot water for some minutes before mounting.
