I bought a new carburetor kit last summer and mounted it for a couple of weeks ago. Interesting to compare with the old one I had. The first test run was promising. After a longer ride I got more and more annoyed about the surging at low rpm. Pretty sure it’s more surging compare to the old one. The fuel consumption is better and the color on the spark plugs looks also better while using this kit. If I can get rid of the surging I will keep them on the bike. The new carb kit has no anti-surge jets mounted. The previous owner said they are all tapped and ready to be fitted with jets. I don’t have a new jet-kit, but I have a lathe and milling machine. Let’s make a set of three 0,8mm jets.
As usual, instant start on the GT. First ride this season. The spring has been horrible cold so far. Was snowing for a couple of days ago. Will enjoy the short MC season on the GT750 this year and hopefully the GT380 will be on the road the next year.
Making new tachometer face. This is learning by doing. Very much experiential engineering. Just have to give it a try and see how it works.
Not difficult to cut the 1 mm aluminum plate using bandsaw. To make the circle using the scroll saw went even more easy then expected. Made the disk a bit wider than the printed tachometer face. Since the faces are printed as sticker lables it’s easy to mount on the alu disk. Holes were drilled and the edge grinded.
Not 100% happy with the result. The alu disk is much thicker compare to the original, giving pros and cons. Stiffer and more solid, and more easy to drill. But look at the lenses, they don’t match the thicker plate. I can mill on ther rear side using a 12mm end mill (don’t have that) or make new lenses on my lathe, if I can get hold of proper acryle material. Time will show what I do.
Step 1: Sand blasting as shown on the picuture above.
Step 2: Grind and get rid of all remains from the old chrome.
Step 3: Use fine grit size on the sandpaper to obtain a shiny surface.
Step 4: Start electro nickel plating. As shown previous on my blog I use the same old bath with the same solvent I made 7-8 years ago. The nickel anode is the only part that needs to be replaced after some time.
After few hours (4-8 hours total electrolyze time) the bolt will be covered with nickel. The gray surface needs to be polished to get shiny.
Phuu, a lot of work, dirty work as well. Dust all over my face.
I have three engine covers to choose from. Two of them have some very bad scratches, too bad to ever look good again. Got hold of an unused one, the new type with 1500cc oil level label.
The bad ones:
Parts for the timing will be removed and reused in the new cover. One of them has a very good nylon gear for the timing assembly.
Before and after one hour of grinding and polishing. Had to grind off a lot of material to remove some deep dents and scratches. Still some scratches left but the cover will be replaced later on with a J cover with engraved Suzuki logo. This is a later model with a sticker in the middle.
The outer housing for the gauges was a disaster. Previous owner had cut off a big piece to get space for an unoriginal ignition switch. Was lucky and got a new housing in a good condition.
The face of the speedometer looks nice. The tacho face has dents and is quite worn.
The needle is also different on the clocks. The 72 model should have chrome in the middle, not white as on the tachometer. The speedometer is all OK.
In addition, both inner housings are in bad shape. Cracks and missing parts.
Can replace it all, but not easy to get 48 years old gauges in a good condition. I also want keep it as original as possible when it comes to the look of it. Therefore I will not mount later models. And I have always wanted to restore gauges and this is the perfect time to do it.
New tachometer face:
The one to right is the damaged one. I scanned the tachometer face and got it edited in SW on my PC. Handed the file over to a printing service and got six new prints as stickers. I’m very pleased with the results and the colour looks to be spot on.
Will make a new aluminium disk without dents.
The image above is for the tachometer and the one for the speedometer is just as bad. What to do? Hmm, lets give it a try. I can draw new ones and get them 3D printed.
Sketching up the measurements on my sketching pad and will try to do the design in Autodesk Fusion 360.
But first I have to learn how to use the SW, Fusion 360 is all new to me.
A simple trial design:
This was fun. Pretty sure I will get it done, and it will be good as new. The image above is not correct, only a test piece. I will post the final files on my blog if anyone wants to download and print their own.
Not sure when, but it will for sure be done if I get this right. The face of the tachometer will also be uploaded.
The learning curve of Fusion 360 was not steep, quite easy after few hours of watching YouTube and I did some trial design.
A bit more tricky to figure out the correct measurements from the worn clock housings I have. The drawing from the K parts manual can’t be correct, will never fit.
After studying Ebay and watched carefully on photos from J/K types, this must be the correct one. Fits well comparing against my broken parts.
Image from Ebay:
Think I got it, the first design of the Tachometer house is done. I left out some of the profiles since I don’t see any need for them.
Hope to get the first trial print at work in about two weeks time. Not sure about the quality, but later on I will have access to a much better printer and can use white filament as well. The first one has to be painted white. I’m so exited to see the result 🙂 One week of vacation now before I continue with any 3D printing.