The upper part of the crankcase was glued using Loctite 574 as sealing. In the same way as I did on my GT750.
The Loctite 574 does not harden in air, only under pressure. A very common type of sealing for all type of crankcase.
Closing the crankcase:
All bolts are labeled with numbers. If you look close at the image you will see the number 25 is written into the case, just below the yellow arrow. That’s the order of the torque settings. If the crankcase is clean it’s easy to see the numbers. Mount all the bolt on the top side but don’t thight too much at this point. Make sure the crank is moving freely before turning the case onto the other side.
Since I have stored the bolts on a picture glued to a carton It’s easy to pick the right bolts with the correct length. All of them have been cleaned and polished. The S mark indicate bolts with more strenghts than bolts without the lable. The S bolts are for GT models but not for GS models. The GS bikes have labels with 7 on, not S. I found only GS bolts mounted on a spare crankase from a late GT model, 76-77. Not sure if that was original from the Suzuki factory or if someone had swapped them all. On my GT380 engine I mounted all the S-bolts I had except from a couple of 7-bolts.
Torque order:
Bottom case:
In addition to my picture above you will find the torque order in the manual and it’s written onto the case.
My nephew Thomas is doing all the paintwork. A 100% professional work, a stunning high quality job has been done.
The colour is a bit lighter in real compare to the pictures. It’s not original Suzuki J colour, but this is the one I want to have. I’m so pleased with the choice. Have double up of both fuel tanks and side covers.
Before mounting the crankshaft, make sure the C-ring is in place in the groove, see the yellow arrow. There is only one to be fitted.
The grooves shown from the red arrows are meant to grab the oil seals. When I got my crankshaft back from overhaul the seals had no marks to fit into the grooves. The old ones had. Don’t know why but they should be original Suzuki seals according to the workshop. Probably a design change on later models.
Align the studds into the grooves as shown on the pic.
The seals should be moved into the bearings, see the red arrows.
Hmm, was not able to align the punch marks as described in the workshop manual.
If I follow the procedure, the spring on image 3 is way too loose. If I turn it all the way around it will be too tight. Got advice from guys on FB and will ignore the punch marks. Mounted as on pic 1 and after the case is closed I will rewind the ratchet wheel 3/4 of a turn to give the correct tension. The rachet wheel is outside the crank case and can easely be adjusted. By the way, the punch marks were also wrong on my GT750 engine.
Don’t forget to mount the gears for the oil pump and tachometer:
Tore Grenasberg
An engineer in electronics with a passion for motorbikes.
